Bio:

James began climbing at age 15 and burst onto the scene with a string of insanely hard ascents of Gritstone Trad routes at an incredibly young age. In 2005 aged only 19, James made a lightning fast repeat of “Equilibrium” E10 7a (The hardest traditional route in the world at the time). Equilibrium was first climbed in 2000 by Neil Bentley and had received only one repeat by Neil Gresham. Both needed multiple years to unlock the intricate moves and lead the route but James took only 4 days.

In 2008, James raised the bar for hard traditional climbing by making the first ascent of The Groove, at Cratcliffe Tor. The Groove had been tried by many of the best climbers over the last 30 years, often being dismissed as impossible of one for the next generation. At a mighty grade of E10 7b, The Groove is now the hardest trad route in England, and a contender for one of the most technically difficult routes in the world.

James has travelled the world, repeating and making first ascents of the toughest boulder problems and routes. James’ focus has recently been on bouldering and last year he made history with three flashes of confirmed V13 boulder problems.

Over the next few years James plans to keep travelling the world in search of the hardest, most inspiring lines. He has plenty of projects lined up including a few grit routes that will raise the top level yet again.

Personal Website/Blog(s):

James Pearson Blog and www.jamespearsonclimbing.com

Home:

Great Britain, UK

Nickname:

Keen Youth

Birthdate:

December 15, 1985

Words to Live By:

"Dance like no one’s watching, sing like no one’s listening and love like you’ve never loved before. Live your life, follow your dreams and listen to your heart."

Spouse/Partner Name:

Emily Brazenall

Best Friend:

Keith Bradbury

Pet's Name/Kind:

Cats, Hiccup and Sneeze

Favorite The North Face Product:

Base Camp Duffle, it has been with me all over the world, taken beating after beating and it is still going strong! This is closely followed by my Nuptse booties, perfect for warming your toes on a cold grit day.

My Theme Music:

Any decent break-beats or intensity Techno

Favorite Book:

Gods of the New Millennium

Favorite Snack:

Banana Sandwich

My Favorite Cooks:

My mother or my girlfriend – any kind of coconut curry.

Favorite Destination:

Switzerland for bouldering, the Peak District for Trad.

Inspiration Within the Sport:

People surpassing what they previously thought impossible.

Most Recent Epic:

Hiking down off the Grand Montets after a great ride on late August powder.

Three Things I Always Pack:

Rock boots, chalk and a smile.

Favorite Piece of History Within My Sport:

Invention of the CAM – revolutionized Trade Climbing.

Most Humbling Moment:

Spending time with the locals of Vietnam and Laos.

Proudest Moment:

Too many for many different reasons.

If I Could Take a Climbing Vacation:

I would go to South Africa (Rocklands) with my girlfriend. She is one of the only few people I can live with for a long period of time and the one person I can’t live without.

My Weakness:

Good food I find it hard not to eat all the time.

Career Highlights:

• Trad:
  
• -Kaluza Klein E7 6c – My third ever trad route, the start of things to come.
• -Knocking On Heavens Door E9 6c – Probably my most scary ascent!
• -Equilibrium E10 7a – First E10, fastest and youngest ascent.
• -The Promise E10 7a – First ascent, super hard and dangerous.
• -The Groove E10 7b – Current state of the art. My hardest route yet.
• 
  Bouldering:
  
• -Secret Splendour V12 – Flash.
• -Keen Roof V13 – First ascent, hardest problem on British limestone.
• -The Ganymede Takeover V13 – Flash.
• -The Great Shark Hunt V13 – Flash, trained specifically.
• -Vecchio Leone V13/14 – Amazing hard bloc.

Films/Media Highlights:

• -Committed (HotAches Productions) – Major featured climber.
• -The Uprising (Crabstix Productions) – Major featured climber.
• -Hard XS (Slackjaw Films) – Major featured climber.
• -Cover of "On The Edge" magazine.
• -Cover of "Climber" magazine.
• -Cover of "Burbage, Millstone and Beyond" a climbing guide book to the Peak District.